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Pure Michigan ~ North Country Trail

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To say that I was stoked was an understatement and wasn’t the only emotion I experienced when planning this trip. I was honestly scared, not only that the physical demands would overwhelm me but that I would be a burden to the rest of our group and ruin their experience.


Our party of 7 currently lives in different areas of Michigan, and our ages range from 21 to 59. We started our adventure by meeting up at one of the girls’ cabins in Clare, MI., which is located two hours south of the Mackinac Bridge.


The quaint cabin was surrounded by Aspen, Oak, and Pine trees and has been passed down through generations. One can only imagine the great times family and friends have had hunting, fishing, and relaxing on the property. The rustic cabin was adorned with taxidermy and trophies of past adventures. This was the perfect start for our hike and has convinced me to add a family cabin to my wish list.


Our first day of hiking started with a 3 a.m. wake-up call. We needed to make it across the Mackinac Bridge before 6 a.m. due to the annual Mackinac Bridge Walk on Labor Day. We then had to drive up to Grand Marais, park our cars, and catch a shuttle that would take us to Munising Falls, where we would start our trek for the day.


Everything went as planned, and we made it to Munising Falls at 11 a.m. Munising Falls is quite beautiful and is the first waterfall I have visited here in Michigan. I was surprised at the number of tourists, and after a few pictures, we were ready to hit the trailhead. I soon realized 99% of the people here weren’t going to be heading our way, and within 5 minutes, we were on our own.


The previous night brought some rain to this area, and the trail was pretty damp, but the smell really stuck in my head. This was God’s creation, unmolested by industry, pollution, and careless humans. I have never been in this environment. I honestly was in awe and, for a few moments, even forgot about the challenge ahead.


This trip was originally planned in reverse, but due to the campgrounds’ availability, our organizer had to schedule it backward. Fortunately, that would translate to a 6-mile hike on our first day. Considering our 3 a.m. wake-up call and drive, I was still full of anxiety.


I was unaware at the time, but the group was planning on 2 miles an hour. I was winded within a mile, so my main concern at the time was just to keep moving. When I look back, physically, I wasn’t tired; I know it was more of a mental issue. If you haven’t figured it out, I am the 59-year-old stud in the group.


As we descended the trail, we came to my first major challenge. A downhill section looked pretty gnarly, and I quickly did an inventory of my gear to make sure everything was secure. I remember a couple of things that my drill instructors taught me while I was climbing the mountains at Camp Pendleton. After watching the rest of our group, I position myself at the end of the line and lean back, slowly making my way down the ravine, internally thanking that salesperson for selling these trekking poles. I know that it sounds dramatic, but honestly, I was not confident or, more colorfully, was shi* my pants. I soon realized going downhill was different but as complex as uphill for this hombre.


As I made it to the bottom, I heard a cheer from the group. After slyly wiping a tear, I could only think of how lucky I am and what a great bunch of young adults I am with. In that moment, I knew they had my back and I could do this. Their support was palpable, and I felt truly part of the team.


We head through the forest, across streams, and up and down ravines, and then we get our first glimpse of Lake Superior shining through the trees. Amazing is all I can say, and I acknowledge my senses are overwhelmed with aromas from the vegetation and the visual beauty of our surroundings. We hike through water and mud, and as someone loses a shoe, I enjoy a little break. Are we there yet? Oh no, I have turned into my kids! We are getting close and running late, but we still should have time to set up and watch the sunset on Lake Superior. As we roll into our campsite, I am completely exhausted. I find some energy to pitch my tent and, after eating a cold dinner, have time to watch the sun disappear on the horizon. The night was cool and perfect as I fell into a deep sleep.


Sunset on Lake Superior, and a storm is coming in the morning.


After taking a quick hike to watch the sunrise and getting the surprise of storm clouds on the horizon, I returned to camp to use my Minimo and coffee press. If you are a novice like me, trying all your new gear at home is a good idea. After making my first pot of coffee and using the coffee press backward, I learned that cleaning up your mistakes becomes harder when following “leave no trace.” After enjoying my coffee and packing up, we figured we needed to make good time with the storm coming in. I wasted valuable time in the morning and learned that it is better to pack fast and take a break than pack and move. I found myself leaving tired and having to catch my wind on the trail. We were fortunate to have basically flat trails for the first few miles. With the storm approaching, we stopped for a quick lunch, collected and filtered water, and covered our objective quickly.


We made it to camp before the rain came and set up our tents, hammocks, and, in anticipation of the rain, two tarps. The plan was to use the tarps to give us cover when packing up in the morning. It was a great idea, but poor execution and nonstop rain (4 inches) turned the morning into a nightmare.
I started with a 47-pound pack and ate extra food to lighten my pack. I knew days three and four were our longest hikes, so less weight made sense. I managed to keep the items stored in my tent, including a sleeping bag, sleeping pad, clothes, chair, stove, and personal items, dry. What I couldn’t stay dry, tent, rain fly, clothes on my body, and shoes erased any gains I had made with the food and added another 5 or 6 pounds. Everyone was soaked and we were relieved it stopped raining about 3 miles in our hike.


I was told even though this was our longest day, as my body became used to the load, I would find it more accessible, and they were correct. The extra weight didn’t cause discomfort, and I enjoyed the day. I felt bad for everyone else who had collected more weight and was hurting. The streams were flowing fast and created a couple of breathtaking waterfalls. With all the rain the previous night and the foliage runoff coloring the streams, my water was limited, and I would wait until we made camp to replenish it. After a wrong turn, we had to hike a few more miles, but the campsite made everything seem worth it.


Trappers Lake


Trappers Lake was my favorite campsite on this trip. We had plenty of space to set up our camp, and with no rain expected, we set up clotheslines, and everyone had a chance to dry out. Our gear was dry in a few hours with a breeze from the lake. We had plenty of wood for a fire, and all but one of us managed to dry our shoes without cooking them. I enjoyed some beef stew, a sandwich, and some coffee for dinner. In the morning, everyone felt happy to be dry; we ate some oatmeal, had our coffee, packed up, and were on our way.


Looking back at Trappers Lake reminds me how important it is that we all follow “leave no trace.” This is one of those places where we need to keep development out, no matter what. I am not sure if you can make it there on a day hike, but either way, you should put this on your bucket list. Personally, I could spend weeks there.


As we head out, it is easy to notice that everyone has a bounce in their step. Dried out and with a pack weight under 40 pounds, I can really enjoy the morning. Birds and chipmunks are all around us, and it is a relief that we haven’t had a mosquito or fly buzzing around us from the start. Don’t let me mislead you, we are covering some of the hardest topography we have encountered on this trip. I actually broke one of my trekking poles and now have a stick replacing it. Trekking poles protect your knees and give you balance, and they are recommended by many outfitters. I purchased Distance Carbon Z Trekking Poles by Black Diamond, which were recommended and, as you can see, expensive. I may have a defective pair since I have not abused them. I have a claim in and am confident they will make good. Today, I learned from the Outpost in Holland, Michigan, that they have a replacement set waiting for me.
As we make our way through the maze of trees and fast-moving streams, it is incredible how much work has been put into making this a safe trail. There are footings made out of local timbers, bridges above the wetlands, and streams that allow you to navigate without disrupting the wildlife and, at the same time, protecting us. This trip has taught me to respect the men and women who safeguard this National Treasure.


We have been at it for about four hours and are approaching our lunch stop at the 12-mile beach campsite. This is my first time here, and it looks like a great place to park the car, camp, and watch the leaves change. I didn’t have time to check the beach access, but I should bring my kayak and wetsuit just in case.
We ate a quick lunch and found some clean water, which is a necessary commodity. Our group has four different water filters. I went with the Guardian by MSR, which has been well worth the money. It is quick, used to support three of us consistently, and could actually cover everyone if needed. Please keep in mind that all water up here needs to be treated, filtered, or boiled regardless of source.


We were warned by some day hikers who stayed at a campsite close to ours that we would encounter a significant ravine to climb that morning. Ironically, they were the same hikers who had been caught burning their trash in the campfire. Oh, where are the rangers when you need them? Usually, I wouldn’t care, but other campers asked them politely to stop, and they didn’t oblige. Their warning about the ravine was vague, and they didn’t specify how far along the trail it was, but we figured we would recognize it when we got there.


About a mile in, we encountered a steep climb, and of course, halfway up, my second trekking pole snapped on me. Luckily, I had someone behind me and an angel in front who promptly found a second stick I could use. I finished the climb, and my only concern was that I had the major ravine left, and I was curious if the two sticks would hold out.


As we passed Log Slide Overlook, we encountered rolling hills and came upon a doe and her two fawns. We stopped in our tracks since Mama and one of the fawns were on the opposite side of the trail. After not sensing any danger, the fawn just looked at us and crossed 15 feet in front of us to join her Mama. It was so sweet how they just watched as we moved on. I was running low on water as we approached Grand Sable Lake. After saying hi to a couple putting their kayak in the lake, I noticed an apple tree and thought how perfect. I knew we were close and saw the Grand Sable Visitor Center, where our cars were parked. The hill they were talking about was the same place I snapped my trekking pole. It was steep but nothing compared to what we conquered.
We all celebrated our accomplishments, and I was both happy and sad. I learned a lot about backpacking on this trip and look forward to more trips in the future. It wasn’t easy, but most things we accomplished in our lives haven’t been easy. It was nice having the young folks with me. They are fun to be around, and I showed them how important it is to live a healthy life. I noticed there weren’t many people my age out on that trail, and I understood that this was basically a baby hike. Still, I am looking forward to a hike with some peers. We just experienced a taste of the North Country Trail and what Michigan has to offer.


Our celebration took us to Marquette, MI, for the UP Fall Beer Festival. There, we enjoyed great food and 600 locally crafted beers from more than 80 Michigan breweries. I only tried 10, but I did get a list with addresses for all 80 breweries if anyone is up for it!

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